Eating on the Wild Side
Jo Robinson, a health writer
and food activist, has just published Eating
on the Wild Side, a book that is loaded with new and interesting
ideas. I strongly suggest that you
buy it! Here are a few ideas from
early chapters. The fruits and vegetables
we grow, buy and eat today have been made more palatable than their wild
ancestors by centuries of plant breeding.
This does not mean genetic modification, but rather careful selection of
varieties of each plant that are large, sweeter, less bitter and easier to chew
and digest. However, we have lost
many of the important plant nutrients in this process. Industrial farming has taken
the process further, and has resulted in loss of flavor. Robinson suggests many ways to
find, store and cook foods to optimize their taste and nutritional value.
Here is what she says about
lettuce. The most intensely
colored leaves have the most plant nutrients – so look for lettuce that is red,
purple or reddish brown rather than all green. The arrangement of leaves on the stem is also important –
there are fewer plant nutrients in tightly packed leaves as in iceberg lettuce
or even romaine than in looseleaf varieties. Leaves need sunlight, but when they are more exposed to the
sun, as in looseleaf lettuces, they must make more anti-oxidants to protect
themselves against UV light. We absorb these compounds, which make
up part of our own self-defense against disease. Buy the freshest lettuces you can – packaged salad greens
have been longer in transit than a heavy head of looseleaf lettuce with crisp
leaves. If you do buy packaged
greens, look for ones that contain a mixture of dark greens that include some
spicy ones, such as arugula, mustard greens or radicchio, and look for the most
distant “use by” date. When you
get your salad greens home, Robinson suggests that you tear off the leaves,
rinse them, and soak them for 10 minutes in very cold water. This will lower
their temperature and slow the aging process. Dry them with a towel or salad
spinner. Then tear the leaves into
smaller pieces – she says that this will double their antioxidant value. The plant reacts as if it was being
gnawed by a predator and produces a burst of nutrients to ward off the
intruding insect. You should eat
the leaves within a day or two after tearing them. If this seems like a lot of work, here is a final suggestion
that sounds easy. To store lettuce
and other greens in the refrigerator, put them in a plastic bag, squeeze out
the air and seal the bag; then use a needle or pin to prick the bag with 10-20
evenly spaced holes. Put the bag
in the crisper section of your fridge.
The tiny pinpricks will provide the most ideal level of humidity in the
bag and enable the leaves to consume oxygen and give off carbon dioxide. The leaves will stay alive, and
fresher, for a longer time. Mark
these bags, so you can reuse them later.
Robinson likes to use this storage technique of microperforated bags for
many fruits and vegetables.
Arugula, a member of the
cabbage family, is exceptionally high in plant nutrients, and should be a
regular ingredient in salads. Look
for younger plants with shorter leaves if you find it too peppery. Use arugula as a spinach substitute in
stirfry dishes. Robinson warns
that the healthful, anti-cancer properties of arugula can be lost into the
water if the leaves are boiled. In
subsequent columns I will write about what Robinson says about artichokes, asparagus
and tomatoes. I’ll close by
telling you that she recommends the smallest tomatoes you can find for both
flavor and lycopene content.
Apparently there is a new tiny tomato called the currant tomato that is
close to the earliest tomatoes found in the Andes, and a real winner.
Sadja Greenwood, MD, MPH